Sharpening modeling manual for professionals, amateurs or do-it-yourself
The world is full of scissors - beauty scissors [or scissors, the most commonly used term for higher-priced hair cutting tools], hair clippers, dog trimming scissors, fabric scissors, tailor scissors, surgical instruments and more. on. When you think that the function of scissors is to cut something, you can understand that sharpening is a demanding skill and transaction.
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In this manual I will find that when talking about expensive scissors, I can use the terms "scissors" and "scissors" interchangeably, because this is what you have heard from the field sharpener. . Technically, some people may be wrong because scissors are used to indicate long blade lengths [more than 7 inches] and scissors are shorter.
When you sharpen your scissors into a professional, you will find two different professions: industrial scissors and styling scissors.
Industrial scissors are everywhere and easier to sharpen. This is because they usually have beveled edges and only one side of the scissors blade becomes sharp. Most companies don't have an employee who is familiar with scissors sharpening, so the sharpener can find work on the regular route and visit some companies that rely on scissors for daily operations.
The styling scissors are usually knurled scissors, so both sides of the cutting edge can work: the outer edge has an edge or is re-angled and the inner edge is polished. The difference is that the edges are rough grit operations and whetstones, according to one definition being "fine gravel for grinding cutting tools" and "making it sharper and stronger".
Start:
Check if the scissors have an identification mark. Does it say "cobalt"? Then don't bend the blade. Does it say "ceramic?" You won't be able to sharpen it. Does it look like a stamping blade? Easy to sharpen. Casting handle? Do not bend.
• Check the scissors for nicks. Move the nail down the cutting edge of the two blades to feel the score or chip you may not be able to see. Or use a cotton ball to gently run along the edge of the blade. Write down them. A deep nick can be a problem you can't solve, so tell the owner of the scissors that there is a problem.
• Check the general settings of the scissors by keeping the scissors under the light.
• Are the tips aligned and the widths equal? If not, you may need to resolve this issue.
· Are the prompts properly combined? Or do they overlap? You must solve this problem by bending the handle.
• Does the handle [wing] match when closed, causing the bumper to hit the finger hole? If not, you will have to bend the handle.
• Check the riding [hobble] line. Is the length of the blade equal to the width? Is there a scratch? Wide shiny spots? Uneven widths or shiny spots mean that the component is closed and you may have to bend the blade if possible. And remember to ask for permission and give a disclaimer.
• Wet a single layer of tissue and perform a trial cut. Please pay attention to whether and where the scissors are in trouble, fold or tear the paper. This may indicate a problem with the collection. A good sharp scissors can be cleaned and quietly cut to the tip with minimal effort. A dull good scissors will still cut the paper, but the noise and effort are more. If it is very dull, it may tear or fold.
Adjusting tension
Keep a blade in a position that is not perpendicular to each other, then lower the blade...
The adjustment screw should not be too tight or too loose. Adjust the tension until the scissors are held as shown and the blade is dropped causing the blade to stop at approximately 1 o'clock.
It should stop at about one o'clock.
Use flat gibberish
To find the angle of the edge of the scissors, you can use the angle meter or gently touch the edges of the wheel and check the resulting shiny points to see if you are leaning toward the correct angle.
Using the angle meter: Hold the scissors in your hand as shown and move the hinge arm up or down until it matches the angle of the edge. The composite angle is then read from the side of the articulated arm. It is best to use a magnifying glass and a light to read the angle meter.
Test with a slight honing: Adjust the fixed arm of the machine to the correct angle you guessed. Hold the scissors on the boom and gently touch the edges to the pad or wheel. Then check the shiny spots that are generated to see if you are correct. Adjust the arm accordingly and try again until you are just the edge of the scissors. If you first cover the black magic mark with ink and then touch the edge to the pad, it may be easier to see what you are doing.
Step 2
Clean the mat.
Once you have found the correct angle, set your arm to this angle. Wear a 15 or 30 micron pad [depending on whether your blade has a notch]. Clean the mat with soap and water. Every time you change the pad, it's important, because once you've done the final polishing, the loose sand from the pad on the other pad creates a hole in the metal. Then, gently spray the lubrication pad with detergent and water. Some sharpeners use a grease stick.
Step 3
Gently press the blade down evenly
When pulling toward the tip, gently lift the blade.
Hold the scissors on your arm with your thumb and forefinger, making sure the angle is the same, gently press the scissors and press evenly on the 15 micron mat. Start near the back of the ride and lower the tip down, then gently lift the blade toward the back as you approach the tip. The full length of the edging blade. You can only place the scissors down on the mat for a few seconds. Then check the resulting shiny dots under a magnifying glass and good light. It should be even over the width of the blade. You should continue to remove the material until there is a very small burr inside the edge. You can see it, or you can feel this burr with your nails.
If you notice that the blade is scored, you will follow the above steps, but start with a 30 micron pad until the score disappears. Sometimes you may have to remove a lot of metal. If you are in the store, it is best to let the stylist know that they have a serious gap, you may not be able to get rid of it, they may have to put up with it. You can still make the scissors sharper than the new scissors, but there will be a small gap. At this point, if it is an older pair of scissors, the stylist may want to buy a pair of new scissors.
Step 4
Once the glitch is found, change the pad to the next size. Gradually used [only 30 if needed], 15-, 9- and 3-pad, 3 micron is the final finish. Note that the edges become brighter each time. At the final polishing, the angle is increased by 1 or 2 degrees, and the edge of the pad is touched very slightly using the same steps as described above.
Step 5
Into the climax.
The 9 or 3 micron pad is barely touching the high point and is mixed in the high point [back] of the edge just created. This causes the convex edge of the scissors to be rounded again.
Step 6
Honing blade
At this point, you have already left an advantage on the blade, but you still need to hone the inside line. The blade was ground using a 4 inch wide 7000 grit stone. Place the blade face down on the stone so that the tip is away from you and tilted forward so you can mount the entire blade to the stone. Place your right hand, use the index and middle fingers, at the top of the blade near the riding area, then place your left hand with your index and middle fingers, approximately halfway down the blade. With medium pressure, the stroke blade only moves forward, placing 70% of the pressure on the right hand. Pull the blade back without downward pressure and then move forward. Do this six times and check the sharpening line of the blade. You should see a smooth uniform width of the sharpening line extending the entire length of the blade [if it is a good pair of scissors, it should extend to the riding area and up at the top of the blade, about 1/4 of the downward blade Length.] See the picture.
After honing, you will see if there are any hooks or bows in the blade set that need to be fixed - they will appear irregular in the sharpening line. A hook will appear as a wider, shiny point, and a bow will appear as a place with no shiny points. See picture.
If something goes wrong, you need to fix them at this point and you can get permission from the scissors owner [of course, there is a disclaimer].
Step 7 [if needed]
Check the set.
Fixed blade set. You must have a curved block to complete this step. The blade is bent regardless of a bow or hole in the blade [see figure]. Behind this point 1/8". If there is more than one hole, start working backwards from the tip of the scissors. If there is a hook, bend outward from the middle of the hole. Once the bow and hook are out, if you need it, At the back of the blade, bend into the front and start from the riding area. For more information on fixed blade sets, see the FAQ and its solutions section.
Step 8
Polish the blade on the convex surface. Use the correct polish and be sure to wear a mask to protect it.
Polish the blade and wear a mask.
Step 9
Assemble the blade. Be sure to remove all compounds, hair, grit and other materials from the blade before assembly.
Step 10
Once assembled, gently touch the edges to the finest grit pad [using the added angle].
Keep the blade open with one blade perpendicular to the other, with the blade to be sharpened snug against the arm of the machine. Use an increased angle and use a 3 micron or finest pad [3 micron or blush pad] to gently touch the edges of the two blades to the pad, pulling you again and slightly...
Orignal From: How to sharpen your styling scissors - Craft Guide
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