Due to the mechanization of life, traditional handicrafts have gradually disappeared. There was a time when sewing, embroidery, crocheting or lace making was the asset of any marriageable girl. It enhances her value as a housewife.
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Today, "time" is a commodity, and there seems to be no one – whether it is a busy housewife or an office host who must work between work and housework. In addition, the rewards of hours of complex work are meager.
I was there to meet an 82-year-old woman who was eager to pass her skills in lace making before she left the world. I was pleasantly surprised. However, her students in the 1960s and 1970s had poor eyesight and their fingers were not as agile as they used to be. But their lack of flexibility is compensated by their enthusiasm. This is not only an opportunity to learn, but also a time for social and friendship.
I have never seen a woven lace made in India [although one of the ladies said it was launched by a colonial wife] and was curious about the skills and patience in her creation.
Woven lace or pillow lace is different from other types of lace because multiple spools are used to make the hairspring pattern. The spools used can vary from 30 to 1200 depending on the skill of the lace manufacturer and the internal circulation of the design. The spools can be simple wooden or fancy pieces with colored beads and decorations. Some of them are very expensive and have become collectors' items.
A round pillow filled with straw or polystyrene is used as a support. In Europe, a rectangular shape is used. Before the work begins, the pillow must be properly "dressed up", which means the surface must be smooth and wrinkle free. Another piece of material is placed on the lower half of the pillow and the tube is placed on the lower half of the pillow.
The paper pattern is spread over the pillow and the contour of the design is fixed to the surface with a plurality of pins. The loose end of the thread on the spool is hooked around the selected pin. The most complex pattern can then be produced by weaving, twisting, flipping or flipping, backwards or forwards. This program is called "throwing spool" and is an art acquired through practice. This is time consuming and cannot be rushed. Carelessness can lead to chaotic threads, causing frustration rather than relaxation. It can take up to three hours to make a one inch lace.
The thread used is mainly white or off-white cotton or linen. If the color does not run, you can use a colored thread. Also tried silk or metal wire.
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Bobbin lace originally originated in Italy in the 15th century. In the 16th century, art spread to Germany in Venice and Milan. It also spread to Great Marlow in England, where it flourished for three hundred years. It took almost a century to spread to other regions.
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Because the stitches are expensive, lace making is only popular among the rich and the upper class. But poor, witty women use fish bones instead of pins. The expression of "coin" may stem from the custom of giving money to married girls, so they can buy pins as part of the dowry so they can make lace.
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The pattern book made by lace was first printed in Zurich in 1561. The graphic explains the complexity of the knotting technique. They are only available in German. Although the author of this book is a woman, she can't write with her name, but only with her name, because women have such a low status in society. Gradually, special books were printed for aristocrats and royalty, and ordinary people could get simple instructions.
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Italy, France and East Belgium [Flanders] became famous for making lace cities. This provides a source of income for many family women. Lace is used to decorate clothes, cuffs, scarves [dresses], and even on the edges of socks. Men like to wear lace-trimmed stockings. Lace is also used in household linen and church accessories. Some garments used by clergy are also decorated with lace.
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The nun was the first to realize that it was a good source of income, and the workforce was cheaply obtained from the orphans and children they cared for. It is certainly a profitable industry, and the "Abbec Lace" is well known throughout Europe.
In France, Louis XIV promoted lace production by heavily subsidizing the industry. He even banned the import of lace from other countries.
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In the Lauterbrunnen Valley in Switzerland, I met another experienced and experienced teacher who was temporarily trying to keep the art alive. She works in a small messy room with samples of her carry-on items and complex laces.
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"The interest in woven lace is quickly disappearing," she exclaimed. "The emergence of the machine sounded the death knell for hand-made lace. However, since 1669, this art has prospered three times in Lauterbrunnen. Century. A pastor was responsible for turning it over into a family handicraft industry and seeing the poverty of his parishioners. Special courses began in 1830, and many people joined because they could earn 30 cents per hour. All models Both are original and complex. Made in Brussels and Saxony.
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She showed me examples of adding oak leaves, acorns and flowers to the design. She even showed me a pair of wooden bobbins as a souvenir.
Patterns have varied for centuries. During the Renaissance, geometric designs and symmetrical patterns were very popular. But in the 17th and 18th centuries, under the influence of the Baroque style, they became more decorative, and the patterns of leaves and flowers were intricate. The most respected motif is the "British Point", a six-sided grid, Machelin and Valenciennes.
The end of handmade lace began in 1820, when John Levers invented the Levers machine. The machine combines bobbin technology with weaving technology and stirs the loose shoelaces. After 1920, the machine was completely taken over. The socio-economic changes after the First World War ended the lacemaking as a craft.
The art of Bobbin Lace is in the final pain. In a few old lace production centers in Bruges, Brussels, Neuchâtel and Lauterbrunnen, people can buy lace samples at high prices.
Because some of the old "kloppel" manufacturers refused to let it die and were eager to pass on their skills to the receivers of the younger generation, Bobbin laces can still survive as amateur art!
Orignal From: Woven lace - a lost art
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