In my broadhead adjustment function, I wrote about the steps to adjust the bow and arrow. In this column, I want to detail the important process of paper adjustment. This is the fast technology required for laser straight arrow flight.
Paper adjustment device
You don't need a fancy fixture to properly adjust your bow. While many specialty stores have complex frames specifically for paper adjustment, you can use a simple cardboard box. Cut a hole in the cardboard box floor that is smaller than one copy paper. You can stick the paper on the hole and shoot it through the box. Set it to the correct height in front of the target and you can start your business.
The other option is simpler; just buy the Paper Tune-It kit from $30-06 outdoors [$11.95]. The unit is equipped with a prefabricated cardboard frame for storing paper, 10 sheets of adjustment paper with pre-printed instructions for correcting imperfect tears.
Shooting distance
You need to take a new shot on the paper without external interference. Place the tuning paper at least 3 feet away from the target so that the arrow does not hit the target before the target passes completely through the paper. When shooting a bow, stand or sit about 6 feet away from the paper. Make sure the paper is almost at the shoulder height so you can use regular shooting. This is very important.
Shooting execution
Since paper adjustment is an experiment of your bow settings and shooting style, you need to focus on making the perfect shot, otherwise you will chase your tail and adjust your bow when your shooting type is actually a problem. If you hold the grip when the trigger is released or the trigger is triggered, you may see tears even if the bow is set perfectly. It is very easy to maintain grip throughout the entire shot and maintain a steady follow-up until the arrow hits the target.
Know your tears
After shooting the paper, you will see a round hole, the field passes, and the blade and the last part of the arrow cause little tear. The value of paper adjustment depends on whether you can read the tears and make the correct adjustments to your bows and shots to cut them. Your target is located around the "bullet" hole, with three narrow incisions that cause radiation from the blades. Such a hole is created by flying the correct arrow, and the neck is immediately behind the point. Any difference in this perfect flight will make you lose accuracy and penetration during hunting.
Tail high tears
There are 4 reasons why your bow might throw a high tail arrow. 1, the number of points on the string may be too high. Second, the rest may be too low. 3. The blades of the arrow may hit the rest, causing the arrow to deflect upwards. Fourth, the cam timing of the bow may close, causing the chord to move forward as it moves forward.
When the modern compound bow is properly set, the arrow will form a 90 degree angle with the chord and will intersect the center of the remaining mounting holes. You can make small adjustments to the nock point so that the tail is down [1/8 inch at a time], but don't make big adjustments. If you have to make major adjustments to see the tearing of the paper, the problem is elsewhere: cam timing or vain contact with the rest.
If the blade hits the rest, you must see the material or mark on one of the blades. If not, you may not be contacting. However, it is certain that an attempt is made to rotate the arrow on the arrow to change the direction of the blade compared to the rest. This can make a difference. If you can't remove the contact in this way, consider doing a similar test or increasing the tension on the active line [at the discarded break] to see if it helps to place the launcher on the previous road.
If there is still a tail tear after adjusting the cut point and eliminating contact, the problem may involve bow cam timing. Unfortunately, I don't have enough space to delve into this topic, but I will introduce it in the companion video on the website. Adjusting the cam timing can be complicated, unless you know what you are doing, or you should take the bow to a good archery store for help.
Tail tears
Low tail arrow flight is rare, usually due to incorrect cam timing. Your lock point may be too low or your break is too high, but you can eliminate it very quickly by moving your lock point up 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch. Similarly, if the forecast is a cam timing, then your best solution is to seek professional help.
Tear and right leg tear
Side paper tears are difficult to eliminate because they have four possible causes, of which only two are easy to repair. I will start with a simple one. First, move your break inward.
If the arrow bends to the right or left, it bows if it tears to the left. Sometimes you will encounter some strange interactions with sideline string movements, and your results are meaningless. For this reason, you should also try to move the rest slightly in the opposite direction to rule out some strange harmonics in the string.
If this doesn't solve the problem, consider an arrow with a different spine - or just a different brand. I have bows and arrows that use a single arrow instead of other arrows to produce good arrows, even though they are considered to have the same stiffness. Performing some small experiments at the archery store can eliminate a lot of frustration.
Now do a hard fix. Lateral string travel may result in an unrepairable left or right split, and mechanical changes to the bow are not required to ensure that the cam starts in the vertical direction and remains vertical as you pull the string. For most bow and arrow hunting, this is a difficult problem to solve. It is time to go to a professional store for help. But before you do, make sure that your form of shooting is not the cause of these side effects.
If you cringe during the shot, grab the grip when releasing, use the grip position that produces torque on the lifter, or apply side pressure to the string when released, eventually an unstable arrow flight - usually the side Tearing to the paper.
Unfortunately, you must pay great attention to detail to complete your shooting style before you can tell the bow. This can take weeks or even months as you work to improve the form. I have been chasing the tuning problem for a few weeks before finally realizing that this is what I am doing. Of course, I learned a lot about archery in this process, but I also lost a lot of hair!
Adjusting the bow is not a dark science, but it requires some effort and is likely to require the help of some experts. But the return is worth investing. Seeing your arrow flying like a laser is the real magic of archery.
Orignal From: How to adjust your bow
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